During the mid 18th century, there was
an increased interest in faux jewelry as a result of a
surge of highway robberies as well as a trend in European
societies to avoid wearing precious jewels, especially
after the French Revolution. As a result, a new type of
stone was invented, called "Paste", which in
essence was a special lead glass that could be hand cut
and hand faceted to create an exact diamond look-alike.
These stones would then be foiled (with a type of aluminum)
and set in silver to bring out the brilliance of each
stone, before being backed in gold (a process similar
to their more expensive counterparts).
A
terrific antique Georgian English, solid sterling
silver witch's heart pin; beautifully made, set
with glittering foiled colourless pastes and a garnet-coloured
paste.
Antique
Gold Lavaliere Photo Locket & Paste Stone Mount
Antique
Georgian Crescent Moon pin brooch with paste stones
Often paste jewelry was an exact replica
of a diamond piece that was worn, and if so, it was usually
made by the same jeweler. It is important to realize that
the paste pieces were made of equal craftsmanship as the
precious jewels, and was so sought after at this time,
even by Royalty.
Pastes, according to Antique
Paste Jewellery
by Malcolm David Samuel Lewis, is "glass which has
been cut into gem-like forms". They were used extensively
from the 1700s to the early 1900s and were a desired material
in themselves, not a replacement for diamonds and gem
stones. Invented by Georges Frederic Strass (1701-1773)
in 1730, they could be set in silver, sterling or gold
and could have been foiled or unfoiled (although 18th
century paste was always foiled). Foiled pastes were usually
seen in closed-backed settings where the foil provided
added reflection and brilliance. Pastes could be much
more readily cut and shaped than diamonds, making a close-fitting
pave look achievable, and a variety of shaped and sized
stones makes a paste piece more desirable. Perfectly round
stones will not be found in the early and best paste jewelry,
nor will claw settings and knife-edge work. Cut down settings
gave way to the coronet setting only in the 19th century.
Paste could be fashioned in different colors, including
an opaline cabochon similar to opals. Most paste came
from France, England, Spain or Portugal. Some later pieces
were hallmarked.
18th century paste was normally
higher quality work than were the 19th century pieces.
Part of the reason for that was attitude and part was
the political climate. Also, an 18th century paste piece
made would have been made by a single jeweler who highly
valued both the material and the craft. Later, a piece
of paste jewelry might have one man who crafted the setting,
another who set the stones, and the piece may have been
designed by yet a third person.
The introduction of paste
in 1730 made the term "Age of Paste" applicable
to the 18th century and their shimmer is as appealing
today as it was when they were made. According to Antique
Paste Jewellery,
paste was only made from circa 1700-1865 but the term
has been more generalized to include pieces up to the
1930-40s, and for some it is used to describe jewelry
even later than that. But beware... paste has been reproduced
for many years and it can be extremely difficult to distinguish
old from new. Findings may also be replacements so it
is good, as always, to do your research (references below)
and buy from a reputable dealer.
by Malcolm David Samuel Lewis, is "glass which has
been cut into gem-like forms". They were used extensively
from the 1700s to the early 1900s and were a desired material
in themselves, not a replacement for diamonds and gem
stones. Invented by Georges Frederic Strass (1701-1773)
in 1730, they could be set in silver, sterling or gold
and could have been foiled or unfoiled (although 18th
century paste was always foiled). Foiled pastes were usually
seen in closed-backed settings where the foil provided
added reflection and brilliance. Pastes could be much
more readily cut and shaped than diamonds, making a close-fitting
pave look achievable, and a variety of shaped and sized
stones makes a paste piece more desirable. Perfectly round
stones will not be found in the early and best paste jewelry,
nor will claw settings and knife-edge work. Cut down settings
gave way to the coronet setting only in the 19th century.
Paste could be fashioned in different colors, including
an opaline cabochon similar to opals. Most paste came
from France, England, Spain or Portugal. Some later pieces
were hallmarked. 
